DEVELOPMENT OF A TOPICAL ANTICELLULITE MICROEMULSION WITH PLANT EXTRACTS

Abstract

Cellulite, also known as gynoid lipodystrophy, is a multifactorial aesthetic alteration characterized by changes in microcirculation, fluid accumulation in the interstitial tissue, extracellular matrix alterations, and disorganization of the subcutaneous connective tissue. In this context, the development of topical formulations capable of enhancing skin permeation of plant-derived active compounds represents a promising strategy in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical fields. This study aimed to develop an initial methodology for the formulation of a topical anticellulite microemulsion with potential future incorporation of plant extracts, especially Centella asiatica, horsetail, and ivy. This is an experimental, methodological, and applied study conducted through bibliographic research, experimental planning, preparation of mixtures between the oily phase and surfactant/cosurfactant systems, homogenization, titration with purified water, and visual and microscopic analysis of the obtained formulations. Different mixtures were prepared using Amide 90 as surfactant and propylene glycol as cosurfactant, organized into three different ratios named A, B, and C. The mixtures were combined with the oily phase, homogenized using a magnetic stirrer and vortex device, and subsequently submitted to aqueous titration. Preliminary results showed that samples B1 and C2 presented better visual homogeneity and were selected as promising systems for continuing the construction of the pseudoternary phase diagram. Microscopic analysis allowed the observation of structural differences among samples A, B, and C, indicating the direct influence of component proportions on the formation of homogeneous systems. It is concluded that the established experimental protocol enabled the initial development of systems with potential for topical microemulsion formation, representing an important step for future incorporation of plant extracts, physicochemical characterization, and stability testing.