ANALYSIS OF THE COMPOSITION AND EFFECTIVENESS OF ASSETS PRESENT IN DERMOCOSMETICS INTENDED FOR OILY AND ACNEIC SKIN

Abstract

Acne vulgaris has been established as a chronic inflammatory dermatosis of the pilosebaceous unit, whose etiopathogenesis is characterized by follicular hyperkeratinization, sebaceous hypersecretion, and colonization by Cutibacterium acnes. This study aimed to analyze the efficacy and mechanisms of action of the main active ingredients intended for the control of acne and oiliness. The research was characterized as a descriptive literature review with a qualitative approach. Data collection was carried out through consultation of scientific articles available in the Scientific Electronic Library Online (SciELO) and National Library of Medicine (PubMed) databases. The following descriptors were used: "salicylic acid", "acne", "efficacy", and "quality of life".  After applying the inclusion and exclusion criteria, 12 studies published between 2020 and 2025 were selected.The results show that active ingredients for oily and acne-prone skin have sebum-regulating, keratolytic, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. Salicylic acid, niacinamide, zinc, and alpha-hydroxy acids stand out, in addition to antioxidant and regenerative compounds. It is concluded that the active ingredients used in products for oily and acne-prone skin play a fundamental role, helping to remove excess sebum and prevent acne-related lesions.