PLANT ACTIVES AS AN ANTI-AGING STRATEGY IN COSMETICS

Abstract

Skin aging is a natural biological process, influenced by intrinsic factors (such as genetics and age) and extrinsic factors (sun exposure, pollution, and oxidative stress), which promotes structural and functional changes in the skin, resulting in visible signs such as wrinkles, sagging, and loss of elasticity. In the face of these challenges, interest in natural and effective cosmetic alternatives is growing, such as phytocosmetics, which use plant extracts rich in bioactive compounds with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and regenerative properties. This work aimed, in general, to analyze the effectiveness of natural extracts in cosmetics intended for the prevention and treatment of skin aging, highlighting their benefits, mechanisms of action, and advantages compared to conventional cosmetics. The research was developed through a literature review with a qualitative approach and descriptive nature, using SciELO and PubMed as databases, with the following Health Sciences Descriptors (DeCS): cosmetics, plant extracts, skin aging, antioxidants, and skin aging, combined using the Boolean operators AND and OR. Scientific articles published in the period from 2020 to 2025, available in full, written in Portuguese and English, and related to the subject were included. Duplicate studies, publications that did not have a direct relationship with the topic, articles not freely available, dissertations, theses, and studies with evident methodological flaws were excluded. The results demonstrated that various plant extracts have antioxidant, photoprotective, and anti-inflammatory properties, capable of reducing oxidative stress, protecting against ultraviolet-induced damage, and preserving the dermal matrix. Furthermore, some studies showed stimulation of collagen synthesis, improvement in hydration, elasticity, and skin firmness, as well as reduction of wrinkles. Phytocosmetics also showed a good safety profile and skin tolerability, with lower irritant potential when compared to synthetic cosmetics. It is concluded that plant extracts represent an effective, safe, and promising alternative for the development of anti-aging formulations, although more clinical studies are still needed to consolidate the scientific evidence proving their effectiveness and safety in prolonged use.